Men in suits : outside the mold

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Craig, Emma Seay

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In applying the methods from the pattern drafting book “Fundamentals of Men’s Fashion Design” by Masaaki Kawashima this paper addresses the ways that it has shortcomings for models that are above the intended range (34-42) of chest sizes. Through an exploration of pattern drafting for four models outside this range there is an outline of the hypotheses before fitting, demonstration of fitting, and outcomes from the fitting are all. With an emphasis on how creating a safe and inclusive fitting room space can begin with testing and finding successful solutions to consistent failings in an otherwise successful drafting system when it is applied to stout or corpulent figures with chest sizes above 42 inches. With the average chest size in the United States being 44 inches, this drafting system does not accommodate the majority and the conclusions of how to adjust this draft for these is key to alleviating tensions in a fitting room as a result of ill-fitting garments. This study also intends to reduce the amount of time needed in a fitting room by helping future drafts start in a place that is closer to a true fit. By the end of this exploration there are clear areas within the draft that should be checked for each model and strategies for addressing them before an initial fitting.


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