Browsing by Subject "Tailoring"

Now showing 1 - 4 of 4

A tailor's perspective on the history and cultural significance of the traje de charro
(2024-05) Limon, Aries ; Reynoso, Josafath; Arevalo, David; Rivas-Rodriguez, Maggie; Orozco, Sylvia
The traje de charro, a traditional three-piece suit, is a recognizable Mexican symbol with a long history. Today, it is commonly associated with mariachi musicians and charros (Mexican horse riders), but little is known about how it came to be such an iconic symbol. In this thesis, I look at the history and development of the traje de charro from the sixteenth century to the twentieth century. Through this examination, I attempt to understand the ways in which Mexico’s history has influenced the design of the traje de charro and the role that the traje de charro has played in defining a national Mexican identity. This research includes a series of interviews with sastres (tailors), who specialize in the creation of these trajes, as well as a series of interviews with mariachi musicians, who wear the traje de charro during performances. I interviewed them about their own relationships with the traje de charro in order to understand how it informs their own identity and the ways in which it connects them to their own Mexican culture. Through these interviews, I gained insights into the ways in which wearing or making a garment from one’s own culture can affect the way they feel about it and add a layer of importance to that cultural garment. Lastly, I investigate my own relationship between my background as a tailor and the ways in which the construction of a traje de charro helps to connect me to my own Mexican culture. I also describe my own process in designing and constructing a custom traje de charro for a mariachi musician. This process allowed me to bring a personal perspective to a craft that I have been developing for almost a decade.
Homage to handmade : an exploration of pre-industrial needlework
(2020-08-17) Harrington, Joseph Henry, III; Glavan, James
The idea for Homage to Handmade: An Exploration of Pre-Industrial Needlework arrived during a classmate’s thesis presentation about potential applications of 3-D printing for theatre costuming. A jacket button or textile, for example, could be 3-D modeled, providing a designer with precisely what they want, and a large quantity of buttons or several yards of fabric could be produced quickly and inexpensively. Her presentation was fascinating and I knew she would do well with her study, but my mind began to wander down a path away from my colleagues. “What does the 3-D printer mean for people who work with their hands?” I thought to myself. “If textiles, and buttons can be so quickly fabricated, will the skills of sculptors and weavers be valued in the future? Will those skills be taught or will they eventually become forgotten and obsolete?” I looked around the room and listened to the feedback of my peers and remembered how few people share my perspective on technology. As the discussion carried on I wrote down my new thesis idea in my notebook. My thesis objective is to build a wig, sew a shirt, coat, waistcoat, and breeches in the style of an 18th century gentleman entirely by hand, id est, without the help of a sewing machine. The shirt will have handmade bobbin lace sewn to the neck opening bosom ruffle, and the waistcoat will be embellished with hand embroidery. These garments and hand processes serve two purposes. On the surface they will be pieces for my portfolio and a personal exercise in refining my needlework skills and acquiring additional ones. I enjoy sewing and take great pride in the process of making. But more profoundly, these items will be a physical representation of disenchantment with new technology. They represent a hope to maintain traditional craft while much of the world is in awe of technological progress. Through my needlework not only will I learn about creating historical garments and wigs, but I begin to answer the question, “why would anyone in this century choose to make something by hand?” This project is the beginning of a lifelong exploration
Men in suits : outside the mold
(2022-05-06) Craig, Emma Seay; Barreto, Raquel; Glavan, James J; Acosta, Nanette
In applying the methods from the pattern drafting book “Fundamentals of Men’s Fashion Design” by Masaaki Kawashima this paper addresses the ways that it has shortcomings for models that are above the intended range (34-42) of chest sizes. Through an exploration of pattern drafting for four models outside this range there is an outline of the hypotheses before fitting, demonstration of fitting, and outcomes from the fitting are all. With an emphasis on how creating a safe and inclusive fitting room space can begin with testing and finding successful solutions to consistent failings in an otherwise successful drafting system when it is applied to stout or corpulent figures with chest sizes above 42 inches. With the average chest size in the United States being 44 inches, this drafting system does not accommodate the majority and the conclusions of how to adjust this draft for these is key to alleviating tensions in a fitting room as a result of ill-fitting garments. This study also intends to reduce the amount of time needed in a fitting room by helping future drafts start in a place that is closer to a true fit. By the end of this exploration there are clear areas within the draft that should be checked for each model and strategies for addressing them before an initial fitting.
Tailoring for the visual learner : the vest
(2012-05) Berthelette, Renée C.; Glavan, James; Otte, Charles
The foundation of Tailoring for the Visual Learner is the exploration of new and creative approaches to preserve, promote, and pass on the art of individually handcrafted menswear for theatre and film. This project culminated in the creation of an instructional video guide unlike anything currently available on the market. Using high definition cameras and a team of highly skilled professionals, I produced, wrote, directed and hosted an instructional video that takes the viewer through every step of the creation of a hand tailored vest: from fabric preparation and drafting to the final fitting. Instruction utilizes a modern voice aimed at early career sewing professionals who wish to advance, and seek an alternative to confusing drafting books or incomplete online tutorials that avoid the features of a truly well constructed garment. By combining up close camera work with textual explanations, graphics, and verbal explanations, I have created a new approach to tailoring instruction aimed at visual learners, who make up a large majority of costuming professionals. By taking the viewer through the tailoring process up close and step-by-step, the time-honored tradition of tailoring is now available and affordable to countless artisans who seek to advance and/or teach their craft.